Topstitch around a neckband. And sometimes the zig zag looks really cool. And remember it's ok if your topstitching isn't perfect. Instructions to attach neckband on a knit fabric: 1. Some machines even have a special setting for using a twin needle. This will leave all the bias tape on the inside of the garment and so that only top stitching is visible on the outside. A good rule of thumb for a regular crew neck t-shirt opening is to make the neckband piece around 70-75% of the neckline circumference. 3. You can topstitch along the seam, on the body of the sweater, using either a zig zag stitch or double needle. (I like to use a 3.0 stitch length, just slightly longer than normal.). This will help the neckband and seam lay flat, as well. TIP: Keep your eye on the neckband fold and try to keep it an even distance from the presser foot so it ends up an even width all the way round. To create a stretchy topstitch, use a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. 4. This happens to be the default way the neckband is finished in my Flashback Skinny Tee sewing pattern, though that pattern also includes a few other alternate neckline finishes as well. I’ve seen some cool ready-to-wear inspiration with tall neckbands lately. And don't worry, you don't need a fancy machine, this can all be done on a conventional sewing machine. When you’re done, gently tear the paper away. I have one spool in off white and one in black and that's so far worked well for any project. Free. Today, I’m going to share my favorite method for topstitching knit fabrics plus some tips and insight on why knits can be so bothersome. It is especially important when topstitching something like a knit neckband or sleeve hems to use a really long stitch. I was scared to do it again for a long time after that because it didn’t work just that one time. My favorite books about sewing with knit fabric 3. 1. I hold the front fabric with my right hand and the back fabric with my left hand to stretch the neckband as I sew. After you attach the neckband, you might want to topstitch and hem it using a twin needle. Neckbands may seem tricky and intimidating to a beginner sewist. If you want more info on sewing with knits I recommend a couple of books that have really helped me: Sew U Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin and The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits by Alyson Clair. Set your machine to a straight stitch. I made a size 2 for the tutorial (not my actual size – I need an 8 for my broad shoulders! How to attach a neckband in the flat. ... Knit fabrics are almost always top stitched with a twin needle stitching.This reinforces the edge and avoids the wavy look. Here I stitched it in place first, then finished the edge with the serger. SUPPLIES. You can either sew on the top side, the band side or straddle the seam – i’ve seen it done all ways :) Remember: you don’t need an overlocker or serger to sew with jersey. Also a note – the pattern recommends using a ribbing fabric for the neckband, cuffs, and hem band of view A. If desired, you can also topstitch with a stretch stitch just under the neckline seam to help the seam allowances lay flat. It’s a stretchy thread that will help your stitching lay flat. Now that you have all the background you’re ready to topstitch your knits! For the Women’s Page I have drafted a 7/8″ (2 cm) tall neckband, and for the Mini Page I have drafted a 5/8″ (1.5 cm) tall neckband. Lisa. It is usually sewn in the round. A good length is usually about a 4 on the dial. Trim ends. You don’t need a fancy machine but I do recommend a few supplies. Sewing a clean t-shirt neckline can be the start of getting your handmade knit garments to have a finish you can be proud of. Sewing a knit neckband is and important technique to master. Now, sometimes you can’t find matching rib knit or you want to make a self fabric neckband. Knit fabrics can vary a lot in stretch percentage, and you would have to re-calculate to make the neckband fit perfectly. The walking foot has feed dogs on the top that help move the fabric evenly under the needle. How to Topstitch Knit Fabric. I really love the wider needle but if I'm topstitching a narrow seam allowance in place (like on a neckline) I prefer the narrower needle. Thread machine according to your machine’s manual. You can attach a neckline band to any tee using either ribbing, self fabric or contrast fabric. I've read that it's often used when serging and with undergarments. Another problem is that in areas with a sharper curve (like the shoulders), you need to apply more stretch than others. Pins, taking care not to stretch as you wear it, so want... 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