Slide the walking foot over the presser foot bar while simultaneously fitting the little claw on the right of the foot over the base of the needle clamp screw. It’s very soft and sturdy fabric which can be used to make a wide variety of garments. Thank you! ), but I loved seeing what you made and the colors are lovely. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. (You don't necessarily need to buy the one sold by your machine's manufacturer though. Comparison of ponte fabric weights: Sew with a stretch stitch up to this mark from below. This wrinkle-resistant knit is super breathable, and wears well for long periods of time without creasing. Do I need to invest hundreds of dollars on Thank you so much, that means a lot to me, and is so great to hear! Get perfect stitches every single time. You won't be able to sew all the way to the top of the zipper, because of the zipper stop, so stop about two inches down. Insert your needle into the machine just like a regular needle and put a spool of thread on each thread spool pin. This is an excellent well prepared tutorial! Because I wanted the seam allowance to lay flat along the neck I also topstitched it down from the outside with a zigzag. However, in the last century scientists have turned to chemistry and technology to create and enhance many of the fabrics we now take for granted. I discuss this when I'm sewing a mock-up in my Designing a Spandex Supersuit instructable, but sewing the inseam on a pattern like this can be a bit tricky because the shapes of the two pieces are opposite each other, the back is a point, and the front is a V. To pin these two pieces together, match the crotch points and place a pin here. The fabric content varies from poly/rayon/lycra to rayon/nylon/spandex blends. A walking foot has "walking" teeth that mirror the movement of the lower feed dogs, helping to move the fabric through the machine and create more even stitching. I folded the elastic over along the sewing line creating a single fold hem, then stitched the hem from the top with the triple straight stitch. I'll try the knit or stretch needles first, but am also thinking of the walking foot, which might help me. Tips for Sewing with Rayon and Crepe Fabrics Shape shifting and Slippery fabric. Shop Now for Rayon Spandex Fabric by the yard at Stylish Fabric Online Wholesale Fabric Store. How To Sew Spandex Using Attachments Now, let’s talk about a possible attachment you can get for your home sewing machine. For more detailed sewing instruction, you can also check out my Machine Sewing Class :). I usually only use zigzag to sew seams in mock-up garments like the one we created in the last lesson. <3, Thanks, going to be needing a male body suit and this tutorial will help a bunch :). When you sew together your supersuit, the order in which you attach your pattern pieces to each other will vary to some extent based on your design. Sew to Serve Our Experts About Search for: Search Tips for Sewing Rayon and Crepe Fabric Facebook Pinterest Twitter January 25, 2019, Sara Johansen Hi, friends! The photo of the 'ss' knob in your post looks similar to mine and I'm trying to make my daughters 1st cali costume and not certain I'm using the right setting. As we talked about when making our pattern, when you want to create a clean finished edge on a shape that is curved like a collar a cut-out, a facing is a good solution. This will end up a bit awkward, with the front piece bunched up to fit around the point of the back. For this reason I think it's a better idea to add a zipper to the center back seam, or even add one along the top of the shoulder or the raglan sleeve line. It can be especially helpful for topstitching stretch, or sewing slightly 'sticky' materials like the faux leather I used on my suit. Spandex is a great fabric for garments that need to stretch with your body. Ponte: Ponte is made up of poly spandex but is sometimes spun with rayon and cotton as well. I really appreciate the tips, especially the zipper sewing one! I could have used a zigzag here, but the straight stitch looks neater. Be sure to prewash before sewing! As someone else mentioned, rayon/spandex jersey CAN be perfectly fine; or it can rather look like the pjs you wouldn't wear at your grandma's house. As long as there is a lot of stretch happening from hip to hip, your garment will likely fit and be flattering. We know ads can be annoying, but they’re what allow us to make all of wikiHow available for free. One thing that can happen when you're sewing stretch on a home machine is that the seam can pucker or get "wavy". Rayon is said to be the first man-made fabric or fiber in the world but during that creation, those inventors did not take the right precautions and make the material stronger. In fact, they are the opposite of each other, juts like the pointed pieces. Start pinning and sewing them together in order, using your notches to help guide you. This Stretch fabrics can also be a bit slippery, springy, and hard to control as you are sewing them, though I actually find spandex to be among the easiest stretch fabrics to sew. Trimming like this will help the edge of the collar form a smooth curve when the layers are flipped right side out. SWEATER KNITS Nearly all sweater knit is a poly spandex blend. WASH YOUR FABRIC: Rayon shrinks so you need to pre-wash & then dry & iron before you sew with it. I imagine this will vary a bit from machine to machine, and fabric to fabric. The terms spandex, Lycra, and elastane are synonymous. Here at Surge Fabric Shop, we specialize in apparel fabrics and trims. % of people told us that this article helped them. This class covered things from how to set the table, all the way to dressing and walking. Spock, I don't know if you're male or female, but as a couple of us have noted, our guys would probably not like wearing this fabric. 2 years ago Constructing a Spandex Supersuit (*you are here), Painting and Finishing Worbla and EVA Foam. Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools and techniques, and learning to sew spandex is a great skill to have, no matter what you're going to use it for. Learning how to sew elastic fabric will give you the confidence to push your sewing skills. I sometimes press the fabric forward just slightly from the front as it feeds under the presser foot to combat the tendency to pucker. Poly Rayon Spandex Blend Color Scheme: Purple and Ivory Content: 63% Polyester, 34% Rayon and 3% Spandex Weight: 160 grams per square meter (GSM) Width: 58/59" Stretch: 60% Horizontal / … To prevent pilling- wash the garment inside out. Place the other pattern piece on top and then pin with fine tip pins. It doesn't really matter if your seams end up puckered here because your whole garment will be stretched tight enough that any puckers should lay flat when it's on the body. Polyester spandex is one fabric that’s very challenging to sew and hem as it stretches in two ways; it stretches lengthwise and crosswise on the grain of the fabric. Pretreatment: Some rayon/lycra jerseys will shrink slightly when machine washed for the first time. I thought I’d share some of the ones I’ve been loving recently. on Step 1, Hi Can you please let me know what tension and stitch setting you use for sewing lycra? I found that on my machine, the regular zigzag and triple zigzag worked better with the walking foot, but the other stretch stitches actually worked much better with the regular foot. Thanks, Answer If you're sewing something big try not to let your fabric hang off the machine as you sew, the weight of the fabric will stretch the seam, and make it harder to sew neatly. Most machines have this capability, and it's actually really easy to use. Question You can sew rayon using a universal needle (the one that came on your machine), but you will find it easier to use an extra sharp ball point needle – a 75/11 or 80/11. This article has been viewed 17,264 times. Commercial or hand designed pattern for your design. When you are sewing in all these the panels make sure that the seam allowances are laying down in the same direction at both ends of the seam, if they twist along the seams they will end up looking lumpy. Here is my secret trick on how to sew knit fabric without Depending on your particular fabric, it's possible that the fabric will continue to stretch over time, and you may have to revisit the hemline once in a while. Not all walking feet work on all machines, so check your manual or look online to see which one to buy for your machine. 2. References. Flip the strip around to the other side and pin. StylishFabric.com. on Introduction. Rayon-spandex fabrics are often used for athletic wear, pajamas, swimwear and casual clothing as the combination of soft yet durable rayon with elastic spandex makes for a good, comfortable fit. This means you use your regular straight stitch like you would on a non-stretch fabric, but as you sew you stretch the spandex. As far as the sewing with straight stitch thing, I have definitely seen people use that method, I guess I just personally found that it was harder to control the fabric when you had to pull during sewing, so I prefer the other stretch stitches. It is also generally good to first sew small pieces, or pieces that are difficult to sew, before attaching them to large pieces. You should be able to see your basting stitches on the each side of the center front seam like this: Now use your zipper foot and a regular straight stitch to sew down one side of the zipper, across the bottom and up the other side. While universal sewing needles can sew stretch, there are needles specifically designed for different types of stretch fabric. I pinned 3/8" wide elastic into the seam allowance of the neckline panels, stretching it slightly but not too much, then sewed it down with a zigzag. I've been wanting to make leggings for a long time and thought I needed a serger. The fabric content varies from poly/rayon/lycra to rayon/nylon/spandex blends. Next let’s talk about care: I was lazy and didn't baste my mock-up. The one drawback of this stitch is that is is really hard to take out a seam if you make a mistake. Tips and tricks to handle rayon challis or viscose material when sewing. . We use cookies to make wikiHow great. Thread the two threads through the machine together as if they were one thread. If you've used your new home machine spandex sewing powers to create an awesome project, share an "I Made It' it in the comments section below. Another great solution for making very professional looking hems on stretch is to use a double needle. Here are a few of my favorites: Zigzag - a classic for sewing stretch fabrics on a home machine, because the structure of the stitches allows the seam to stretch. Pinning the zipper in with the suit on the person is brilliant, I will definitely have to try that, and include it in the Instructable. Check your sewing machine’s manual to find out how to change the presser foot pressure. I also think it makes sewing curves and complex shapes much more difficult and the finished seams aren't nearly as strong as seams made with the other stretch stitches. I usually only use zigzag to sew seams in mock-up garments like the one we created in the last lesson. Adjust the presser foot so that the pressure is set to 1. Do you line your supersuit with another material when you sew it? Silkworms, sheep, beaver, buffalo deer, and even palm leaves are just some of the natural resources that have been used to meet these needs. You can also use light pressure on the presser foot, choose an all-purpose polyester thread, and set the sewing machine to a narrow zigzag stitch setting to get the best possible results when sewing spandex. It can be found in lightweight, midweight and heavyweight varieties. a Hoodarf? thank you! 2 years ago, Did you read through the section on Sewing Stretch on a Home Machine? A standard sewing machine needle, size 11 or 14 can work well for Spandex. Should be working now :). But, because of these wonderful qualities, it can also be a little tricky to sew with. Pivot the second side of the top piece around to meet the second side of the bottom piece. Contrary to popular belief, the term "spandex" is not a brand name, and this term is used to generally refer to polyether-polyurea copolymer fabrics that have been made with a variety of production processes. On my machine there is a special "Stretch Stitch" (S.S.) mode on the stitch width dial that you use when sewing most of the stretch stitches like this one. Tighten the thumb screw and you're ready to sew. Overcasting (or Knit) Stitch - this is a great stitch for stretch because it both makes a clean unbroken seam line and creates a wider stitch that finishes the edge of the fabric. Sew along this seam and stop when your needle is exactly at the corner point. Comparison of ponte fabric weights: Ponte can be found in three different weights; light, medium and heavy. Take the spare spandex material and cut out a patch that’s around ¼ inch bigger in diameter than the hole. This is one variation of how you can use a facing to create a clean edge on an odd shape when making a bodysuit. Since rayon spandex comes in such a wide variety of prints (and solids too!) Check your machine manual to see how to set up your stretch stitches. If it broke, back to do it again.At the other costume shops we used what you call the overcast stitch. I'm new to this, but everything I saw said that you need to use the polyester thread because cotton will break. Posts about rayon spandex written by SewGr8ful When I was younger I took an etiquette type class. Test it on your machine and compare the results you get from different stitches. Rayon is a fabric that sits somewhere between the natural and synthetic worlds. Black & Peach floral rayon spandex on Amazon. I used a Simplicity legging and dress pattern but you could get a legging pattern from nearly any pattern company. Shop Now for Rayon Spandex Fabric by the yard at Stylish Fabric Online Wholesale Fabric Store. If the zigzag is pulling the two stitches together and creating a pucker between them on top and a tunnel underneath, tighten the thread tension on top and loosen it on the bobbin until the stitching lays flat. Wow! From the front it should look something like this: Unzip your zipper. rayon/spandex fabric. With your suit still folded in half on the center front seam open the seam allowance and pin one side of the zipper to the seam allowance, right sides to right sides, like this: Hand baste this side of the zipper to the seam allowance. Soft and lightweight, viscose fabric is a fixture of many wardrobes and homes and has been in use since the late 1800s. The SS setting is the standard stitch length setting you use for most of the stretch stitches, but for zig-zag, you don't use SS, you set the width of the zig zag by setting the stitch length. They told me to use a wide zigzag. Some people think you need a serger to sew spandex, but while sergers and overlock machines are great tools that can simplify stretch sewing, they are by no means the only option. Spandex is a synthetic fabric that is prized for its elasticity. Poly is similar to rayon and so it works better with it than cotton thread does. 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